MB&F M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S Watch Review

Like many watch collectors, I love seeing it when MB&F releases a new watch. While the prices contain too many digits for me, it's exciting to see the innovative ways that Max Büsser and Friends come up with to track and display the passage of time. Unfortunately, owning one is something that I can only dream of.

When the brand's offshoot, M.A.D. Gallery released the more affordable M.A.D.1, I furiously started searching for how to buy one. While it was not cheap, it was a fraction of the cost of an actual MB&F watch. It used a novel time display method using barrels. A spinning rotor with lumed sections on it was visible on top of the inverted movement. That movement was a large part of its lower cost as it was powered by a modified Miyota caliber.

Unfortunately, the first batch of blue MAD1 watches was allocated only to friends of the brand (mainly existing customers and partners). Other colors were subsequently released, and allocated through various lottery processes, none of which I was able to buy.

Then, in early September of 2024, M.A.D. Gallery held another lottery for its updated M.A.D.1S. My luck came in this time, as I was able to purchase the brand's upgraded model. The minute barrel was dropped, making the watch slimmer, and the Miyota was upgraded. Maybe it was best that I was forced to wait. The email said that I could receive mine within a few weeks, or it might take up to eight months. I (not so) patiently waited.

First Impressions of the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S

I finally received the watch in November. It's certainly a watch that will attract attention. Still, I can feel some of the MB&F energy in it. After having briefly handled the original M.A.D.1, I am also happy to have the thinner one.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S Details

The first thing that you'll notice of course is the battle axe rotor. Intricate polished chamfers below a brushed top surface create reflections, making it even more mesmerizing. It spins freely above the inverted movement with the beating balance wheel also visible.

The movement is secured by a brushed ring, and a blue anodized ring with a polished M.A.D.1 logo sits where a rehaut would be on a traditional watch. The slightly domed crystal creates minimal distortion.

The M.A.D.1S case is cylindrical and sits on a plate with a set of claw-like lugs. When viewed from the side, it appears to be a sandwich of layers, with a black anodized ring sitting in the middle. The blue hour cylinder sits behind a cylindrical mineral crystal.

Arabic hours are shown with 15-minute increments indicated in white. The crown sits at 12 and uses a more traditional design than the first M.A.D.1. At 6 o'clock, a pointer indicates the current time to the wearer on the side of the watch.

Wearing the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S

The M.A.D.1S is by no means slim, but it's over 3mm thinner than the original. No one will ever say it disappears on the wrist, but at 42mm wide by 15mm thick, its size is comparable to a more conventional chronograph or dive watch.

Its 50.5mm lug-to-lug distance isn't compact, and the lugs appear to float off the sides of the case. This gives it a larger footprint. It will look large on most wrists, but it's still wearable. It's also comfortable due to the way it sits flush on the wrist. 

Telling the time on the M.A.D.1S takes some getting used to. Like an Amida Digitrend, the time is read with a side view as if your hands are on a steering wheel.

Especially since the S has lost its minute display barrel, it's not a watch to wear when punctuality is critical. Telling time is a rough estimate.

All of the hour markers are filled with Super-Luminova. It's mostly useful for cool lume shots, but it does help in certain lighting conditions.

Setting the M.A.D.1S takes a bit of coordination. First, if you're not on a 15 minute increment, it's a bit of a guess were to set it. The crown is also a bit tricky to grip, as the strap sits so close to it. I found it's easiest to pull it out and then roll it with your thumb. At least it is easy to adjust while on the wrist. The crown features what could be interpreted as the top view of the watch, or a turtle.

Original and replacement straps for the M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S

The included strap is a rally-style black calfskin leather with blue stitching. It feels of high quality and looks great with the watch. It features an embossed pattern, blue stitching, and rally-style vent holes.

It also includes a double-fold deployant clasp with the M.A.D. logo with a two-button release. The end of the strap is just long enough to fit in both of the keepers on my 7.25" wrist.

If you'd like to change the strap, the lug width is 24mm. Because of the placement of the crown and hour indicator, the original strap uses curved spring bars like the Ming 37.07. If you'd like to replace the strap with one from StrapHabit, you'll need use the curved spring bars that came with your M.A.D.1S, or pick up a set of our 24mm Curved Spring Bars.

Here is a list of some straps available in 24mm that fit the M.A.D.1S:

-Ridge Rubber
-Smooth Rubber
You can also view our Guide to Choosing a Watch Strap.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S Movement

The "S" model's movement upgrade was from a Miyota 821A to a La Joux-Perret G101. The reason that the Miyota was chosen originally (besides cost) was its free-spinning rotor. At the time, the brand couldn't find a Swiss movement with this characteristic. If it spins one way, the rotor winds the movement, but it can free spin in the other direction. This allowed for the M.A.D.1's party piece, the visible blades that spin wildly with any flick of the wrist. 

Since then, La Joux-Perret released its G101 (the dateless version of the G100). Besides achieving the desired "Swissness," the beat rate was increased to 28,800vph (8 ticks per second), and the power reserve is now a stout 68 hours. The movement is also over 1mm thinner than the Miyota.

Watches with LJP movements are typically priced much higher than Miyotas, especially the 8-series. Its specs are better, and it's also a prettier movement. Yet M.A.D. didn't increase the price of the S model. While I disagree with people who just a watch's value based solely on its movement, this does bring the M.A.D.1S's price more in line with more conventional watches on the market.

Some owners of both have said that the S rotor (constructed of tungsten and titanium) doesn't spin as freely as the original due to its tighter tolerances. While I don't have an original for comparison, it spins as freely as any Miyota or 7750 that I've owned with a more conventional rotor. It's even possible to get it spinning long enough for action lume shots!

Conclusion

I knew this going into it, but the M.A.D.1S is a a piece of art rather than a serious tool. It does tell the time, but it's a watch for people who appreciate design.

I read somewhere that it's a watch only to wear to Redbar events. While I won't feel comfortable wearing it everywhere, I'm still thrilled to have it. I like what MB&F does as a brand, and I'm happy that I had an affordable opportunity to be a part of it.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S Specifications:

Name: M.A.D. Editions M.A.D.1S
Reference Number: M.A.D.1S
Original Price: 3,135 CHF (sold out)
Width: 42mm
Height: 50.5mm
Thickness: 15mm
Lug Width: 24mm (requires curved springbars)
Movement: Inverted La Joux-Perret G101
Power Reserve: 68 hours
Water Resistance: 30m
Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal top, mineral crystal sides
Crown: Push-pull
Bezel: Fixed, stainless steel
Strap: Calfskin leather