We’ve all seen it before, and I know I’m guilty of saying it. “That’s a lot of money for a watch with that movement,” or “I can get this other watch with that same movement for X dollars less.” While the movement is arguably the most important part of a watch, it’s far from everything. I thought I would delve into the other things that I look at when evaluating a watch, either for purchase or a review (or both, as it usually goes).
Case and Finishing
The finishing of a watch case is often an area that gets overlooked because it’s difficult to show on a spec sheet or even in photos. The phrase “plays with the light” can come off as an overused cliché in watch media, but it’s for a reason. How a watch looks on your wrist in different lighting conditions can add a lot to the wearing experience.
Applying perfect black polishing, intricate fine brushing, or a mixture of both with sharp edges in between adds a lot to the cost of a watch. A Grand Seiko is a good example of this, as it can’t be appreciated until it’s seen in person.
Alternately, if it’s a tool watch, perhaps the manufacturer applies a hardening process to the metal (or a coating) that will make the watch much more durable. Consider the Sinn U1 S and its tegimented steel case. Alternate materials such as titanium or ceramic are also more expensive.
Often more complicated construction methods are used too. Consider the Seiko MM300 and its monocoque case, or a Bell & Ross BR01 with its screwed-together case.
Bracelet or Strap
If the watch comes with a bracelet, the fine finishing mentioned earlier should carry over. Finishing each link adds complication, as do things like half links.
Good clasps are expensive to develop, especially if they have a proprietary micro-adjust system built in.
If the watch comes with a strap, is it made from a high-quality and long-lasting material? Is it comfortable and does it complement the design of the watch? A low-quality strap is a good way for a company to reduce the cost of producing its watch that won’t show up on a spec sheet, and a buyer might not notice until after they have worn the watch for a while.
Dial and Hands
The dial is the part of the watch that you’ll interact with the most. A beautiful dial with a deep, rich color or intricate finish can make or break a watch.
How about the legibility? Does it have distinctive hands that are easy to read, or did a microbrand choose some off-the-shelf designs? Are the hands and hour markers finished in such a way that they reflect light, making them easier to read?
Great lume also adds cost to a watch, but we all know how much we collectors love lume.
Design
I think a lot of people don’t consider the design of a watch as having a cost, but it most certainly does. Good design can add cost to a watch in several ways. Perhaps the brand chose to hire someone (either internally, or outsourced) with extensive design experience, or someone at the brand already spent the time gaining that experience and education. IWC’s pilot watches are an example of this. They are too expensive when you compare the specs to other watches, but IWC is established as the go-to for pilot watches. Other pilot watches often feel less cohesive, with design flaws that I find bothersome. If I had bought one, I would also have felt like I had the "wannabe."
Hiring good designers has a cost, and perfecting designs requires yet more money. Imagine that a brand owner receives a prototype of a new watch model. Some details will likely be different than expected. Maybe if the lugs curved down slightly more, it would make the watch more comfortable, or maybe one of the colors would come out slightly off. Watch brands in this situation are faced with moving ahead and selling a less-than-perfect watch or kicking off a design change. This costs extra money, in the form of additional prototypes as well as additional months that the brand can't sell these watches and recover its investment. If the brand wants to get the watch “perfect” and choses the latter, it adds to the bottom line.
Image
A lot of us like to kid ourselves and pretend that the image portrayed by the watch that we are wearing doesn’t matter. But the fact is that everyone considers how they are presenting themselves to the world when they get dressed in the morning (even not dressing well is a choice).
You might choose a watch that doesn’t offer a great bang for the buck but that portrays an image of success. A Rolex is the obvious choice, although there are plenty of others. While this is often done for superficial reasons, this is also useful in some professions. If you’re involved in sales or meet frequently with executives, you might choose a watch that portrays success.
If you’re around fashionable people, you could choose something more esoteric like a JLC to portray an image of good taste.
In other professions, you might need to buy something more rugged that portrays an image of toughness such as a Doxa.
If you just want to feel cool while you wear a watch, something fun and funky like a Manga Casioak certainly portrays a different image. It's more expensive than a basic Casio, but it also looks way cooler.
The Company Itself
How you feel about the company should be factored into a purchase decision as well. You might appreciate a brand with an extensive history, one that you know will be around for decades to come. Or the history of a watch model itself can have deep meaning. Many people choose the Omega Speedmaster for its history with the moon landing, or you could appreciate the racing history of something like a vintage Heuer.
Maybe a brand is based in your home country or state. While watches are only manufactured in a handful of countries (likely not the one you live in), you’re still supporting a business that operates in your local economy.
You might also like what the brand stands for. Some brands support charities or initiatives that are important to you. Islander donated the entire purchase cost of the Journey watch to charity, and I bought a Sheffield because the brand supports one of my favorite podcasts, as well as an MS charity.
Perhaps a brand shares a message that you align with or advocates for using its watches for activities that you are passionate about. Even though a Brew is not the lowest cost with a Mechaquartz, maybe you love making the perfect cup of coffee while you’re wearing it.
You might also simply just like what they do for the watch community. Some brands are large and faceless, while others are active on forums and social media. This supports the community but takes significant time and effort. These brands often have their proverbial fingers on the pulse which allows them to release products that are missing in the market.
Some brands even support other brands in ways that you wouldn't expect, for example, Nodus. It frequently collaborates with its competitors, either through watches like the Trailtrekker or shows like Intersect. Nodus also licenses its Nodex clasp to other brands who might not otherwise have the resources to offer an extension clasp to customers.
Movement Upgrades
I know that I said you shouldn't judge a watch by its movement, but some brands find a way to make even this an upgrade. The M.A.D. 1S uses an off-the-shelf movement, but it's highly modified and is made to be an integral part of the design.
Ming adds decoration and skeletonization, making movements like the SW210 much more interesting to look at.
Choosing the right watch
Don't interpret all of this to mean that I think the movement is unimportant. It's simply not always the most important factor for me. Buying a watch is a partially rational, but mostly emotional activity. The specs of the movement and who makes it should be factored into the final decision. Ultimately, however, I recommend that people look at how wearing the watch will make them feel, rather than getting bogged down with spec sheet comparisons.