The Picúa is part of the brand's fully custom range: a 39mm dive watch rated to 300 meters, powered by a Swiss automatic movement, and priced under $1,000. On the island, the name has a double meaning: a picúa is a barracuda, which is the swift and accurate predator of the Caribbean waters, and it is also local slang for a pretty, self-assured woman. The link to the barracuda is appropriate, since the most direct predecessor of the Picúa is a watch with the same name: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda.
The Barakuda was a civilian version of watches originally developed for the German Bundesmarine in the 1960s and was named after the local company that supplied them to the military; its characteristic feature was a series of large, block-shaped hour markers typical of late-1960s and 1970s design. The Picúa adopts precisely this visual style, with a touch of the Marathon GSAR tool watch attitude added. Santurce has taken a watch which now costs five figures and given it a Caribbean interpretation.
The watch has a diameter of 39mm, a thickness of 12.2mm, and a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, with the distance between the lugs at 20mm. These dimensions are roughly as close to the ideal ones as you can find in a modern diver's watch. It is small enough to suit smaller wrists and large enough not to vanish on wider ones. For context, the 2019 reissue of Blancpain's Barakuda measures 40mm, showing that the Santurce model has maintained the proportions typical of the vintage style. The case is made from forged and heat-treated 316L stainless steel, a corrosion-resistant alloy widely used in the industry because of its molybdenum content.
In terms of the finishing, the Picúa falls short. The entire case is brushed, but the brushing is quite simple. The edges and transitions between surfaces aren't particularly sharp, and at this price I would have preferred sharper lines or a polished bevel to add variation to the surfaces. The segment of dive watches under $1,000 has become extremely competitive, and case finishing is one of the areas in which brands are now able to distinguish themselves. By contrast, the crown is excellent: big and easy to hold, exactly what you need in a watch meant to be used, not just admired. It is also easy to set the time, even when your fingers are wet or cold.
The bezel consists of a stainless steel unidirectional mechanism with 120 clicks and a steel insert coated in DLC. DLC, which stands for diamond-like carbon, is a thin layer of amorphous carbon that possesses very high surface hardness and therefore provides considerably greater scratch resistance than the aluminum inserts that are typically found at this price level. The action is accurate, with minimal play, and each click hits cleanly.
If you turn the watch over, you will see one of its more attractive features: a caseback engraved with "El Jíbaro Buzo", original artwork by co-founder Anita. The jíbaro, the traditional figure of Puerto Rico's countryside, is here portrayed as a diver. This is a skillful example of cultural storytelling and gives the Picúa an identity beyond its Blancpain inspiration.
The dial appears to be flat black in Santurce's product photographs, but in reality it is more impressive. It has a slight radial brushing effect that picks up light at particular angles, giving it depth without losing its tool-watch character. The brand's photos do not fully show this. The stars of the show are the indices. They are big and bold, providing the most direct connection to the Barakuda. On the original model, the large markers were designed to be highly legible both above and below water, and the Picúa follows the same principle of prioritizing function. The issue is that the handset doesn't match the assertiveness of the indices. Next to such bold indices, the hands look too small, and I would have preferred a bolder, more substantial handset. This is a matter of visual hierarchy: on a dive watch the hands should be the most prominent features on the dial, but in this case they are competing with the markers rather than taking precedence over them.
The same imbalance is noticeable in the dark. The lume is Super-LumiNova Grade A and is truly bright, but since the indices have much more luminous surface area than the hands, it takes a little longer than it should to read the time at a glance in low light. The hands could be larger, which would solve both problems. I also think the logo is a bit too big. With all the elements surrounding a 39mm dial, a smaller logo would leave more room for the overall design. The watch uses a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides to protect it, and the anti-reflective property works well; glare is well controlled, and the dial remains readable from the side, which isn't always the case at this price.
It contains the Swiss Sellita SW200-B in a no-date version. The SW200 series is the standard choice as an alternative to the ETA 2824-2 since it operates at 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), has a hacking function, can be hand-wound, and may be serviced by essentially any competent watchmaker around the world. This serviceability is often overlooked when buying from a new microbrand. One of the most noticeable ways the Picúa differs from its inspiration is that it doesn't display a date. While the civilian Barakuda model had a highly visible date window at the three o'clock position, Santurce chose dial symmetry instead, which has improved the overall layout. Even better, the brand deliberately avoided including a ghost date position. On some watches that don't show a date, a date movement is used, but the date wheel is omitted, leaving the crown position dead and completely inactive when pulled. Although it is a minor inconvenience, once you become aware of it, you can't stop noticing it. By including this feature, the company shows it cares about the owner's experience. The watch is assembled in the United States and comes with a two-year warranty.
The Picúa comes with a rubber strap, an appropriate choice for a dive watch at this price and a subtle nod to its origins, as the Barakuda model was available with a tropical-style rubber strap renowned for its durability and comfort. This rubber strap can handle water, sweat, and heat, and it keeps the watch light on the wrist. The 20mm lug width means that there is access to a wide variety of aftermarket straps. StrapHabit carries a large selection of 20mm straps that look great on the watch, such as the Sailcloth FKM Rubber. My pick is blue.
The Picúa isn't flawless; the case finish is basic for the price, the handset is underpowered compared with the dial, and the logo could use a few millimeters less. That said, the basic features are all there: excellent proportions, a sharp bezel, a genuinely usable crown, good anti-reflection coating, bright luminescence, a well-specified Swiss movement, and a real story behind the design. While many brands have drawn on the Fifty Fathoms, few have given the model a reason to exist beyond a mere tribute. Santurce has done so, with a name that works in two languages and a case back that could only have come from Puerto Rico. It's a great watch for the price. Also, it's been great to see so many new Puerto Rican brands starting up. The Santurce Collection Picúa costs $949 and is currently sold out, although a waitlist is available on the brand's website. For further details, visit the Santurce Collection website.
Santurce Collection Picúa Specifications:
Name: Santurce Collection Picúa
MSRP: $949
Case Material: Forged and heat-treated 316L stainless steel, brushed
Diameter: 39mm
Lug to Lug: 46mm
Thickness: 12.2mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Movement: Swiss Sellita SW200-B automatic, no date (no ghost date position), 28,800 vph
Water Resistance: 300m / 1,000 ft
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides
Bezel: Unidirectional 120-click, stainless steel with DLC-coated steel insert
Lume: Super-LumiNova Grade A
Case Back: Steel, engraved with "El Jíbaro Buzo" artwork by co-founder Anita
Strap: Rubber
Assembly: USA
Warranty: 2 years